2023 Charteris Pokolbin Selection Hunter Valley Chardonnay
Chardonnay is unique in its ability to carry an acute sense of place while allowing clear winemaking expression. On rare occasions, the line between these two poles becomes blurred in such a way that they are indistinguishable, and infinite complexity is the result.
This Chardonnay represents a selection from a small part of one vineyard in Pokolbin which shows a confluence of site distinction, the season and human thought.
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Wine Specs
Vintage
2023
Varietal
Chardonnay
Appellation
McDonalds Flat Vineyard, Pokolbin
Harvest Date
28/1/22
pH
3.28
Bottling Date
19/9/22
Alcohol %
13
Wine Profile
Tasting Notes
The gentle ripening period through December 22 and January 23 are at the heart of this wine. Subtlety, elegance and restraint, fold through clearly defined fruit with a background of underlying complexity.
Pale to mid yellow with green hue.
Custard apple and green mango counterpoint ripe grapefruit and Meyer lemon to provide focus to the fruit driven core of this wine. Finger lime and feijoa notes add an exotic lift to the aromatics. Gentle flint, Hazelnut praline, roasted cashew and a hint of Corton like milk bottle complete the yeast derived festoon of subtle aromatic complexity.
Supple acidity on entry forms a soft gateway to a round and creamy texture. Ripe nectarine with hints of grilled citrus and lemon curds envelope almost invisible oak support giving a long and persistent finish. There is a style and focus here that will see this wine grow in stature over the next 5 to 6 years.
Vineyard Notes
There is a lot that can be said about doing the same thing over and over while expecting different results, Crazy springs to mind, but in the Hunter when grapes are concerned, we call it Winemaking.
After the challenges of 2020,2021 and 2022 we were due a reprieve, which was certainly not forthcoming at any time in the spring of 2022. The pressure of constant rain and little wind from March until October 22 meant just getting into the vineyard on foot, let alone with a tractor was near impossible. For the first time in many years vignerons resorted to aerial spraying with helicopters to get the first few sprays onto their vineyards. With the continual wet weather came the ongoing threat of Downy mildew infection and potential crop loss. While there were several vineyards in the Hunter that did not pick a berry, the ones who took the “Crazy” approach and didn’t let up with their management the rewards could not have been greater. The clouds eventually parted, and summer arrived. With it came excellent canopy growth which while unruly and messy looking, protected the grapes from the heart wrenching hailstorm that tore a swath through the middle of the Pokolbin Vineyards on the 4th of January 2023. Fortunately, the hail was confined to a small area and the fruit that was damaged had time to dry up and fall off before harvest ripeness. The result being a long slow and dry ripening season producing some exceptional wines.
You can see why some people talk about Hunter Valley Winemaking and Craziness in the same sentence, I call it Commitment and Tenacity.
Production Notes
Hand Picked on 28/10/023.
3.28 pH
4.7 g/L TA
13.0% Alc
100% barrel ferment in 500 Litre Puncheons, 20% new
Alcohol : 13.0%
Standard Drinks: 7.7
Fined with Milk products, Traces may remain
Food Pairing Notes
Coral trout, pan seared in butter with truffle salt shoestrings or Neil Perry’s Slow Roast Chook if its Sunday night and you are feeling homely but a little bit fancy.